2008 Expedition - Summit of Logan looking to Kings Peak
Mount Logan, the highest peak in Canada is 5,959m or 19,551ft above sea level, the mountain is the second highest in North America. Nestled within the Kluane National Park in the Yukon Territories, the peak is part of the larger Saint Elias Mountain,
The mountain was named in 1890 by Professor Cook Russell of the United States Geographical Survey. He was on an expedition sponsored by the National Geographical society, and fortunately the American surveyor decided to name the mountain after a Canadian, Sir William Edmond Logan, the founder of the Geological Survey of Canada.
The first summit was June 23, 1925. An eight person team from the Alpine Club of Canada and the American Alpine Club was led by Albert MacCarthy and assistant leader Fren Lambart.
The climb took 65 days over 1,000 kilometres, sing horses, dog and hauling
tons of supplies across glaciers .
The route they pioneered what was to be know later and is know today as
the King Trench route.
Kluane National Park and Reserve
Kluane National Park & Reserve protects a spectacular Canadian landscape in the southwest Yukon, where visitors can explore a world of high mountain peaks and massive valley glaciers, boreal forests, sparkling lakes, iconic northern wildlife, and Southern Tutchone cultural heritage.
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Nature & Science
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Culture and history
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Stewardship and management
Climbing Mount Logan Expedition Logistics
Kluane National Park and Reserve details for planning an expedition.
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Climbing season
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Access
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Low impact mountaineering
Conquest of Mount Logan - Library and Archives Canada
Documentary film on the expedition of H.M. Laing, naturalist with the National Museum of Canada, which was organized under the auspices of the Alpine Club of Canada and reached the summit of Mount Logan in June 1925. The assembled footage taken by H.M. Laing and Allan Carpe of the American Alpine Club provides a descriptive portrayal of this hazardous mountaineering adventure. (YouTube 43 minutes)
The Epic first ascent of Mount Logan
In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, Norman H. Read, W.W. Foster, and Andy Taylor stood atop Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak at 5,959 metres.
1925 Expedition Team: From left to right:, N.H. Read, Alan Carpe, W.W. Foster, A.H. MacCarthy, H.S. Hall, Andy Taylor, R.M. Morgan, Howard “Fred” Lambart. Photograph by Captain Hubrick at McCarthy, Alaska. Photo Credit: Library and Archives Canada
Mount Logan: Moments in Time
PODCAST - High in the mountains of southwest Yukon, as far west as one can go in Canada, lies Kluane National Park and Reserve.
Our guests on today’s episode, Dr. Zac Robinson and Dr. Alison Criscitiello, talk to us about the goal of their expedition which is to drill ice core samples from the summit plateau, and to re-take landscape photos from previous climbing expeditions, many of which are held here at LAC. Our colleague Jill Delaney also discusses repeat photography and gives us more details as to how LAC’s photography collection can be used by the public. (Govt of Canada Archives: 61 minutes)
How scientists solved the mystery of Mount Logan's true height
In 1992, a team backed by The Royal Canadian Geographical Society became the first to accurately measure the height of Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak
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